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Boy! Reconstruction is intense.

Because sometimes you need to bring it in-house

A few of our clients do their own printing, either for in-house quality control purposes or because they enjoy getting ink under their nails. The reasons are varied.

We service certain industries, such as those in electronics manufacturing, stained-glass, and even other screen printers who are not set up to make their own screens.

So whatever your reason, we can custom-make your screens too.


Our standard frames are made of wood; either solid or laminate (plywood) depending on the size. We have two basic standard sizes which cover most requested applications (8" x 10" i.d. and 12" x 21" i.d.). Custom sizes are available upon request.


All the mesh we use is polyester mono-filament mesh. (Silk has not been used in the industries for years. This is the reason why the term Silk-screening is frowned upon.) Mesh coarseness is determined by thread-count.

We carry many different thread counts (measured in threads-per-inch); each has a different usage or is more suitable for different ink viscosities.

Thinner inks, such as epoxy and UV, would require a higher thread count to reduce the amount of ink that passes through.

Thicker inks, like Plastisols, or inks with a large particulate, like metallic flake, require a lower thread count to let more ink through and leave a heavier lay-down.


Graphic Images uses Autotype's Autosol Classic emulsion for our stencils for resistance to solvents and water.

The stencil is made by contact exposure. This process involves using the photo-reactive emulsion, a film positive, a very large vacuum frame, and a bright light source.

Special Considerations

With a clear understanding of your project, we can customize your screen to meet your needs. The last thing we want is to give you a screen that you can't use.

Overall Size

Sometimes you have to print inside an item such as a metal enclosure. If there's room, we can make that screen.

Metal Edges

Like above, sometimes there doesn't appear to be enough room to print where you would like, such as in a corner or next to some other immovable item.

By replacing parts of your wooden frame with thinner metal edges, allowing you to print much closer to your obstacles.

"Extreme" Modifications

Sometimes replacing a single or even two sides won't get you past that obstacle, or you have to print around an object. In this case we can cut a channel out of the frame or even poke a hole in the screen.

"Poke a hole in the screen?" Sure, if that's what needs to be done. By reinforcing the mesh around the section with a dimensionally stable mylar, it's perfectly okay to cut small voids from the mesh.

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